![]() ![]() The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Analytics". This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. These cookies ensure basic functionalities and security features of the website, anonymously. Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. I’ve done this on about 20 different bookcases without nails. (It’s obviously more forgiving using MDF and painting it)īut just set the blade for an ACCURATE 45deg and just glue the bastards together. This can be a pain using plywood but you can do loooong mitres on an accurately setup TS. You’ll need to introduce a a face-frame on the shelves themselves to maximize rigidity. Seeing you don’t want to introduce supports between the gables this is the only way to diminish/eliminate sag.īUT – you’re gonna need another refinement. You’re best making a jig of some sort that will let you route to the exact thickness you’re dealing with – there are many variances in 3/4″ plywood. ![]() I route dadoes and grooves into the gables and back for the shelves to fit into. They don’t need to be all that deep – 1/8″ deep is fine – but with 3/4″ plywood, you can easily go 1/4″ deep. The dadoes hold the board in place and prevent sag. The trick is to use housed joints – such as dadoes and grooves. I make my stuff entirely out of MDF and never use screws or nails.Īs you probably know, MDF has no grain and can’t support its own weight. The widest one I’ve made has 86″ wide shelves and exhibits zero sag. I’ve made bookcases in different widths with no supports between the gables. I’m curious what handy tips you guys have for supporting really wide shelves. With a little planning and the help of a handy online calculator, sagging shelves will be a thing of the past! The author of the website gives a very helpful tip: “The eye will notice a deflection of 1/32″ per running foot.” You can even factor in the effect of a solid piece of trim at the front of the shelf. You just need to decide how much sag is acceptable. Simply fill out the online form and the program tells you how much sag to expect. This is a great online resource for calculating how much deflection to expect using different materials under different loads. Whenever I have to decide how much support to give a shelf, I start by checking The Sagulator. This trim piece will give the shelf a lot of extra support and also give you enough material to rout a decorative profile, which is a nice bonus. A common implementation of this technique involves trimming out the front of the shelf with a 1 – 1 1/2″ wide piece of solid stock. Here’s another cool option: attaching strips of wood to the shelf itself. If that’s not an option you could simply glue in a ledger strip under each shelf. Another similar option would be to install a thicker back panel and rout a dado for the entire back of the shelf to sit in. Screwing the shelves into the back is a great start and will provide a significant amount of support along the length of the shelf. This can make an incredibly attractive bookcase look absolutely dreadful. The wider a shelf is, the more likely it is to sag. Will that be enough support for a 76″ long shelf? Will I have problems with sagging?” My plan is to mortise the shelves into the sides of the cabinet and screw the shelves to the back panel. Everything will be made from 3/4″ plywood. “I am building a large bookcase and don’t want to add any more support than necessary. This article was inspired by a question from Steve. ![]()
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